Project: "rover" >> "goose" >> "the goat"

Tech talk for those wrench turners on your trail rig.

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ky mudhunters
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Re: Project "Goose"

Post by ky mudhunters » Tue Mar 11, 2014 10:12 pm

Bobby, how well does the driveshaft work out using that method? I tried a similar method but putting the level on the side of the yoke where you would install the snap ring. It worked ok but still not very square once I saw it rotating in the truck. The last couple of shafts I put back in the truck once the yokes were pressed in the tube. Then I used a dial indicator and would rotate the shaft. Just kept tapping it until I got it running within about .010" This method worked very well. I took the first shaft I made this way to a driveline shop up here in Cincy to have it balanced afterwards. The guy checked it out and said there was no need to balance it, "it wasn't going to shake" he said and "I can't believe you got it that good with it in the truck". Had the truck going 70 and no vibes.
85 S-10, 5.7L LT1, NV4500, 203/205 doubler, D44 Ft, Ford 9" Rr, locked, sitting on 36" Iroks

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TwoStep
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Re: Project "Goose"

Post by TwoStep » Tue Mar 11, 2014 11:31 pm

Well I have only built two before, the one I just rebuilt and the one that is currently in the front of the jeep. Before I dinged the rear they seemed to do great. Of course with those big square bias SX's and a transfer case the wants to chatter when you get to 60mph... I don't do much highway speed driving in it. It's plenty good for a trail rig. I never had mine balanced before because there wasn't anyone around Lexington to do it.

woohoo, got my tierod straightened-er. I remembered that my neighbor has a 20 press so we worked on it a little tonight. She is ready to be beat up against some more rocks!
DSCN3170.JPG
DSCN3167.JPG
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ky mudhunters
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Re: Project "Goose"

Post by ky mudhunters » Wed Mar 12, 2014 12:13 pm

I notice in that second pic that you are using a single ended cylinder for your full hydro steering. How do you like it? I am getting ready to start another project that will be full hydro and thought about using the single ended cylinder since they are cheaper than the double ended ones.
85 S-10, 5.7L LT1, NV4500, 203/205 doubler, D44 Ft, Ford 9" Rr, locked, sitting on 36" Iroks

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TwoStep
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Re: Project "Goose"

Post by TwoStep » Wed Mar 12, 2014 1:22 pm

I'm tickled with how my steering works, especially for what I have in it. I reused the XJ's old power steering pump, and the cylinder is a forklift side shift cylinder. I did buy the steering valve, it's a PSC valve but I bought it and a steering stem from Lii.

If/when I have to buy a cylinder I will get a bigger one though. Mine is 2" bore x 8" x 1" rod. I would step up to a 2.5x8x1.125 (same size as PSC sells) except I'm not paying PSC's premium price... I'll take an ugly non-welded one for $100 less, like this one:
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics ... 35-8-S.axd

When I do that I will likely do the HO mod's to my pump:
http://comancheclub.com/topic/6649-ps-p ... ification/
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ky mudhunters
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Re: Project "Goose"

Post by ky mudhunters » Thu Mar 13, 2014 12:23 pm

I know what you mean on the cylinder price. I am running one of the surplus center cylinders on my hydro assist.

Why not go ahead and do the pump mods now? I have done it on all of my buddies' rigs because it is quick and easy. Be careful if you start adding shims inside the relief valve though. I tried that on one of my Saginaw P-pumps and it built so much pressure it blew the back of the pump out. I didn't have a gauge on it so I don't know how much pressure I actually made. Now I just remove any of the factory shims that are on the outside and just crank the nut all the way down then drill the outlet fitting.
85 S-10, 5.7L LT1, NV4500, 203/205 doubler, D44 Ft, Ford 9" Rr, locked, sitting on 36" Iroks

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TwoStep
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Re: Project "Goose"

Post by TwoStep » Thu Mar 13, 2014 2:48 pm

Good call... I think I'll do it tonight. I don't have any washers so I'll just check for shims first and try it out next weekend.
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ky mudhunters
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Re: Project "Goose"

Post by ky mudhunters » Thu Mar 13, 2014 7:29 pm

FYI, the after-market rebuilders don't use shims. They just loc-tite the nut in position so you may not see any shims. Just check for a gap between the nut and valve body. If there is a gap, tighten the nut until it is tight to the body.
85 S-10, 5.7L LT1, NV4500, 203/205 doubler, D44 Ft, Ford 9" Rr, locked, sitting on 36" Iroks

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TwoStep
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Re: Project "Goose"

Post by TwoStep » Thu Mar 13, 2014 11:36 pm

Thanks for the info. I drilled the output fitting/restrictor to 3/16" and pulled the regulator out. There was no shim and I don't remember seeing any gap or loc-tite... I wish I would have read this before I finished. I don't have any washers the right size so for this ride I figured I would just see how the increased flow changes things.
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TwoStep
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Re: Project "Goose"

Post by TwoStep » Tue Mar 18, 2014 11:04 pm

New driveshaft is more balanced than the original. After putting the front end back together I took her out for a high speed (probably 60mph) test drive and she was smoother than ever. I'm very pleased!

Last week I pulled the front diff cover off and sure enough the cover had JUST started to touch the ring gear. The steering ram hand also been pushing into the cover and had almost worn a hole through it.

I beat the pan back out and cut a piece out where the steering ram was hitting. I cut this piece out because the steering at full lock is already close to the cover (the reason I couldn't run a HD cover in the first place).
DSCN3212.JPG
After I formed a piece of 10ga and welded it in and patched the whole with a chunk of 5mm plate I had laying around:
DSCN3213.JPG
BETTER THAN NEW!
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Reeko
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Re: Project "Goose"

Post by Reeko » Tue Mar 18, 2014 11:11 pm

Looks great!
Neglected little porky TJ. Oh, and it is red!

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StigZR2
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Re: Project "Goose"

Post by StigZR2 » Wed Mar 19, 2014 7:30 am

DYI at its finest. Good job Bobby!!![CLAPPING HANDS SIGN]


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TwoStep
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Re: Project "Goose"

Post by TwoStep » Wed Oct 12, 2016 2:44 pm

Been a while since I've updated this thread. Not much to add really. Straightened my tie rod a couple more times. The front diff is holding up great. Punched holes in a couple of my tires. Rebuilt the bolt retainers for my RCI filler neck. The original design is a plastic ring with knurled bolts (picture wheel studs) pressed in. I took the neck off one time and stripped one of the bolts out. So I replaced it with something a little more substantial.

Next up is a full rebuild this winter. I plan to take it down to the frame, check it over for cracks. Ideas include: 15" stretch (to match an LJ tub length) so the back seat is usable, boatsides, finish up the cage, clean up the wiring, bunch of other little things.

Dixie Run 2015:
Image

Dixie Run 2016:
IMG_1669.JPG
my jeep was stolen by a couple of guys doing too much of this :beer:
IMG_1797.JPG
I'm really not a big fan of the cheap RCI tanks:
IMG_0683.JPG
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uglyoffroad
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Re: Project "Goose"

Post by uglyoffroad » Thu Oct 20, 2016 1:06 pm

15 inches is quite a bit hanging off the back. Are you going to stretch the wheelbase too, or just the Tub?

I've been wanting to do something different with the fill neck on my RCI cell too. Always thought the neck should have been a larger diameter or it should have had the option for a remote fill location. It would make it easier to fill when you have to use a gas can.
CHROME DON'T GET YA HOME

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TwoStep
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Re: Project "Goose"

Post by TwoStep » Thu Oct 20, 2016 5:06 pm

I am thinking more like 8" between the axles and 7" behind. It's not set in stone but that is what I am thinking. I am willing to give up some of my departure angle (now is negative) to increase my storage.
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CJ51973
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Re: Project "Goose"

Post by CJ51973 » Thu Oct 20, 2016 5:09 pm

So, 15" of family room?


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