Kentucky Krawlers

My shop is all ran in EMT. I can take some pics if you wanted to see how it looks. I don’t have any drywall or plywood though. My shop is a steel frame with the white backed insulation on all the walls and roof.

The Romex is definitely faster to run. Pushing a lot of wires through conduit can be a pain especially if you have multiple bends.

You mentioned a right angle drill for wiring. When I wired my house back in the spring we did most of the drilling with a Dewalt impact and wood drill bits like these https://www.grainger.com/product/1PMT8?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2rOX9-nH3gIVgh-GCh1faQYPEAQYAyABEgKK0vD_BwE&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=EAI...

When I did a similar swap with a S10 body on a K-5 frame, I welded new mounts to the frame that matched up with the original S10 body mounts. That was way easier than making new mount locations on the body.

I installed some of these frame repair sections on my neighbor's TJ. It's possible to do in a weekend.

https://www.autorust.com/product/full-c ... -wrangler/

I have a couple of 3.73 geared 14 bolts from SRW trucks.

Thanks for the info Bobby. I guess we will just stay clear of the area. I wonder if the trail around Widowmaker is closed as part of that?

I have seen on Facebook that the forest cops are writing tickets if you are on carb or rattlesnake. Anyone know what the deal is?? We were thinking about heading down to ride in a couple of weeks and I don't really want to come back having to pay a fine.

jmkreisle wrote:What is the rule on creating bypass through the creek itself? Just a few downed trees I believe that would need to be dealt with.

I've thought the same thing but isn't that area still part of the public lands controlled by the USFS? I know they wouldn't like us re-routing the road into the creek.

That is what I meant. Keep both ends of the ram attached. If the ram is not attached, it will not move while you are cycling the steering back and forth because you don't want the engine running yet.

I would keep the cylinder hooked up. That way you will cycle fluid in and out of the cylinder to remove any trapped air.

I bled mine by hooking everything up and then filling reservoir with fluid. Steer back and forth lock to lock, adding fluid as needed. Continue until no more air comes out (it will take a lot of cycles). Start engine and cycle lock to lock a couple of times. Recheck fluid level.

If possible I would recommend installing stops in the cylinder. I had extra stroke in mine originally and when you went full lock you could see it really stressing the upper ball joint. I didn't worry about it at first but later it caused the ball joint to become loose in the steering knuckle becaus...

I would completely flush the fluid and see if that helps. It would make a difference on my truck before I went hydro assist.

Are you running a PS cooler? When was the last time the fluid was changed?